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Old Sep 13th, 2009, 03:24 PM   #1
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Lili de Alvarez - Spain's first great tennis star

Most of this piece is taken from various Spanish sources available on the internet.
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If there is one image which sums up the best of Spain and which shows the twentieth century with its capacity for all things good and new, it is the image of Lili de Alvarez contesting the Wimbledon singles final in 1926, 1927 and 1928, none of which she won.

She was a combination of elegance, beauty and distinction which had not been seen before on the tennis courts. And that image corresponded perfectly with one of the most interesting personalities of our time, a woman whose death in Madrid, on 8 July 1998, at 93 years of age, struck like a sensational half-volley, which had always been her best shot, a life which had always been viewed like a tennis match in which it was not worth staying at the baseline.

Elia María González-Alvarez y López-Chicheri was born quite by chance in the Hotel Flora in Rome, on 9 May 1905. She was baptised in the Basilica of St. John Lateran, which is the cathedral of the Church of Rome in the same city, no less, and the first part of her life unfolded under this sign of elegant cosmopolitanism.

Due to the delicate condition of her mother’s health, Lili spent her childhood years in Switzerland, and there became adept at all sports on all surfaces, from Alpine skiing to ice skating, from tennis and horse riding to billiards, which she started playing at four years of age supported on a chair.

She had an amazing constitution, both svelte and firm, sinuous and wafer-thin. Her delicate features and a figure painted by Rafael de Penagos for the illustrations in Blanco y Negro contained a steely and adventurous personality, a determination and a will to try anything and to undertake any sport. At age 11 she won her first trophy for ice skating and at 14, her first tennis tournament. At age 16 she won the gold medal for skating in Saint Moritz. And because she always liked to enjoy herself while at the same time competing, she also won the tango championships in Germany.

However, the sport for which she was best suited was tennis. She progressed at a dizzying rate and, initially, on an international scale. When, at the age of 18, she moved with her family to live on the French Riviera, she was the most sought-after partner by all of the celebrities from the aristocratic and political worlds who used to spend the endless summers there, in particular King Gustav the Fifth of Sweden, with whom she often played tennis in Cannes.

Lili sought strong sensations and motor racing gave her them. Racing and competing were one and the same thing for her, which is why she won the motor racing championships in Cataluña at the age of 19. Seeing that she had no rival, she concentrated on tennis and after only two years of practice reached the singles final at Wimbledon which, then as now, was the most important championship in the world. This was the moment when Spaniards, and especially young Spaniards, were dazzled by her beautiful figure dressed in a linen shirt and a long skirt, all in white, with a very broad belt, turbanned, with short black hair in the “garçon” style.

Sometimes she wore the belt and a red cardigan, always over the obligatory white clothing, including the stockings and low shoes. This made her look even more beautiful. And the way she concentrated was unbearably attractive, as devastating as her drives.

When, in 1926, she contested her first singles final at Wimbledon, against Britain’s Kathleen McKane, she had the winning of the match in her racket. She had lost the first set 6-2, but, cheered on by the spectators, which included King Alfonso XIII and Queen Victoria Eugenia of Spain, she reversed the score in her favour by winning the second set and by leading 3-1 and 40-15 in the third set. Then, she said later, “I completely forgot where I was,” and she lost the title she had almost had in her bag.

Lili always remembered that match as the nicest one in her whole life, perhaps because, despite the result, she had proven that she was the better player. In contrast, in the following two years she had to play the best tennis player of the time in the final, the American Helen Wills, who was clearly better than the “senorita”, as the British press always called Lili. During her meetings with other top players of that era Lili was not afraid to show where she was from and exhibited a very Spanish character in her matches.

A famous anecdote of the time featured Lili as one protagonist and, as the other, the victorious French marshal Ferdinand Foch, who, with affected gallantry, is supposed to have said, “I would not dare to propose a game of tennis with that lady.”

Lili is supposed to have witheringly replied: “Don’t worry, marshal. I wouldn’t declare war on you either!”

She said that because the senorita, who won the ladies doubles at Roland Garros in 1929 with the Dutch player Kornelia (“Kea”) Bouman, was a convinced feminist who had no time for macho condescension although, as a particularly cultured and cultivated person, she appreciated talent and inventiveness. Of course, this led to several setbacks for Lili de Alvarez, but she overcame them easily with the “passing shot” of her personality. This is not to say that she became conceited in the face of adversity; she liked to provoke it so that she could overcome it.

Having become a celebrity, she was tempted by journalism and began to write for the London “Daily Mail”. After the proclamation of the Second Spanish Republic in 1931, she began to send parliamentary and political reports, placing a special emphasis on changes being experienced by Spanish women.

In 1934, she experienced a change herself when she fell in love and married the Count of Valdene, a French diplomat and aristocrat, but her marriage had the same tragic fate as her country. In 1939, after losing the child she was expecting, she separated from her husband for good. It will never be known how splitting from her husband affected a person as religious as Lili, but it must have affected her seriously and deeply, just like what had happened in Spain and was about to happen in the rest of the world. She always refused to write her memoirs so the secret remained where it surely had to remain – in her heart.

In 1941, she decided to live in Spain and continued her involvement in sport and winning championships. She did so in motor racing and in skiing, where she was Spanish champion. However, she had an altercation in Candanchú, with the other members of the federation there, whose nastiness is easy to imagine. They had the brilliant idea of making the women wait while the men skied first, and she showed them who was boss. They accused her of “offending Spain”. Not long after expelling her from the federation they wanted to readmit her, but she no longer wanted to compete and dedicated herself to sport privately. She did this until she reached her old age.

She then began a career as a writer of religious and feminist works, a troublesome mixture. In 1946, she published “Plentitude”. In 1951, she gave a lively speech at the Fifth Latin American Feminist Congress, entitled “The Battle of Femininity”.

In 1956, “Foreign Land” was published with a great deal of repercussion in unofficial Catholic circles; this was the first in her series of books on spirituality and her commitment to the disadvantaged. She relied on her special friendship with Guillermo Rovisora, a labour leader of the time, and Tomás Malagón, a priest who worked with the Catholic Action Workers’ Brotherhood based in Madrid.

The titles of some of her other works are “Feminism and Spirituality”, “Male Religiosity and Its Unhappiness”, “The Myth of Amateurism”, “My Spiritual Testament” and “The Great Explanation Concerning Life and Sport”. In the intellectual world Lili de Alvarez was what she had been in the sporting world – an exception. Or, more precisely, someone exceptional.

When Spanish tennis reached new peaks during the Davis Cup final against Australia in 1965, Lili travelled to Sydney and wrote the following for ABC: “In the White City stadium, when the military band played our national anthem, tears came into my eyes and I thought, ‘As I report on this match, what brings more glory, more pride to Spain nowadays, openly, manifestly, multitudinously, than this fair game which everyone plays?’”

In the last years of her life Lili followed the news only sporadically. She had to live many years to see Conchita Martínez triumph at Wimbledon, seven decades after her own success. In relation to Conchita Martínez and Arantxa Sánchez Vicario, she said: “Conchita has the talent necessary to be the best, but lacks the will; Arantxa has the will, but lacks the talent.’”

Lili appeared in public for the last time on 11 May 1998 to present her book “The Great Explanation Concerning Life and Sport” and passed away without receiving the Golden Medal for Merit which the Higher Sports Council in Madrid was due to award her on 25 July 1998. She died in Madrid on 11 July 1998 at the age of 93.
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Old Apr 10th, 2013, 09:17 PM   #2
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Re: Lili de Alvarez - Spain's first great tennis star

Here are some pictures Jimbo found on "the senorita" to complement Mark's excellent biography of Lili.

in 4° and 5° pic she is at left, with Kitty McKane



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Old Apr 10th, 2013, 09:17 PM   #3
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Re: Lili de Alvarez - Spain's first great tennis star

Lili de Alvarez again



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Old Apr 10th, 2013, 09:19 PM   #4
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Re: Lili de Alvarez - Spain's first great tennis star

The picture below shows Lili in her famous culottes. The photos above are a visual demonstration of her fashion chic. often compared to Suzanne Lenglen for her style and flair, Lenglen's retirement in 1926 allowed Alvarez to fill a gap left by Suzanne.

The culottes shocked staid Wimbledon in 1931. Designed by the famous Italian Elsa Schiaparelli, the style didn't catch on in tennis, but did influence fashion. for more on culottes please see post #6 in this thread.




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Old Apr 10th, 2013, 09:24 PM   #5
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Re: Lili de Alvarez - Spain's first great tennis star

At the 1931 French Championships

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Old Apr 10th, 2013, 09:31 PM   #6
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Re: Lili de Alvarez - Spain's first great tennis star

A recent article on culottes, Lili, and the impact they had on fashion history.

http://babecycle.wordpress.com/tag/culottes/


I remember learning the word “bifurcated” in 10th grade English: “to divide into two branches or forks” (or pant legs, more on that in a second). This class inspired my passion for words and literature, and after going to college for a degree in English lit, (read: personal enrichment) realizing I needed a tangible skill to survive in a recession, and then going into apparel design, I felt like I had branched off in a completely different direction. However, now I have come full circle to the word that inspired a tangential journey to my current career path, the first garment Babecycle produced for retail was a bifurcated skirt, also known as a culotte. Growing up in the Pacific Northwest, I have always had a very strong affinity for trees and the metaphors of branches and roots. Using this analogy, we are going to dig into the history and the roots of the word “culotte” and then explore how the meaning branched out to the current day interpretation.

The history of this garment is fascinating and linked to women riding bicycles and engaging in other forms of physical activity. Yes! But first, the French word described men’s breeches or knee length tight fitting pants, usually made of silk, and worn with socks covering the lower leg. This style of pant first appeared in the late 1500’s, and was worn by aristocratic gentlemen across Europe. During the French revolution, 1789-1799, the revolutionary fighters were known as the sans-culottes, (without culottes) as they were rejecting this aristocratic system. So, what did the sans-culottes wear? Trousers. How modern! Slowly, the word and garment morphed into what we now know as a split skirt for women, but the drama doesn’t stop with the French Revolution.

Schiaparelli designed this silk tennis outfit for Lili de Alvarez worn at Wimbledon in 1931.

When the culotte appeared in women’s fashion, it did so as a compromise between appearance and function. During the Victorian era, when skirts and dresses were floor length, women would not have been able to engage in physical activities such as horseback riding or bicycling without a split skirt, unless they were sitting side saddle. Yet, it was paramount to uphold the illusion of the skirt, and so the culotte usually had pleats or a wrap around skirt to disguise the pant element. The culotte was accepted because it did not appear to be a pant, and therefore did not threaten the status quo. However, when French designer Elsa Schiaparelli wore a culotte that was undeniably a divided skirt, with two distinct legs, the British press went wild. The photo and caption are from Shocking! The Life and Art of Elsa Schiaparelli:

Schiaparelli’s shocking split skirt, London 1931
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“French designers had been playing with the idea of the divided, or culotte, skirt for several seasons, and by spring 1927 it had found its place in the wardrobe of active, fashion conscious women. In May 1931 Schiaparelli wore her true divided skirt, undisguised by panels or a wraparound skirt, in London during a trip to buy tweeds. The garment caused much controversy and was loudly condemned by the British press” (31).
Why so much controversy? Around the same time, British author Radclyffe Hall was put on trial for her book The Well of Loneliness (1928), about a “sexual invert” and the book was subsequently banned, (now I really want to read it!). Before the trial, women who chose to wear pants “had been viewed as an artistic affectation, but after the trial any form of dress deemed to be masculine, such as the divided skirt, was decried as anti-feminine and was associated with lesbianism”(15). It is stunning how powerful clothing can be and how much meaning it carries. We have come a long way since 1931; however, the needs of “active, fashion conscious women” have not very well been served! The bicycling clothing market has mostly been catering to the athlete, only now are smaller companies rising up to meet the needs of urban riders who use the bicycle as transportation.
The modern Babecycle culotte isn’t quite as controversial; it is a pragmatic garment appropriate for the office and efficient on the bicycle. Babecycle says, “It’s easy to bike in a skirt, especially if it is really pants!”
Babecycle culotte in citron cotton jacquard. Photo by Hub & Bespoke.
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Old Apr 10th, 2013, 09:37 PM   #7
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Re: Lili de Alvarez - Spain's first great tennis star

Lili reached the Wimbledon final 3 years running, coming up short to Kitty McKane in 1926 and then Helen Wills in 1927 and 1928. Not until Conchita Martinez in 1994 would another Spanish female reach the Wimbledon final.

Ironically the closest Lili ever came to winning a major was probably a semifinal loss at the French in 1927. Helen Wills skipped the French in 1927 to concentrate on Wimbledon. Alvarez was the clear favorite and #1 seed, but went out to Bobby Heine of South Africa.

Last edited by Rollo : Apr 10th, 2013 at 09:43 PM.
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